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Destinations
/ Australia
/ Queensland
/ GBR
/ Far Northern
Our
personal recommendation and experiences
In this region, divers can experience the most remote and
unspoilt reefs found anywhere in Australia. Excursions are
offered for a limited time each year only.
You
can dive here from August to December. If you are planning
a dive trip during this time of the year, and want to experience
something special, a Far Northern Excursion should be your
first choice. This area offers a dive quality which is easily
comparable with diving in Papua New Guinea and Micronesia.
This is remote diving at its best, and is recommended
for advanced and more experienced divers for maximum enjoyment.
Location
This area is located about 400 kilometres North from Cairns.
The Far Northern section of the Barrier Reef is situated
close to one of the most solitary pieces of earth left on
this planet - the Cape York Peninsula. This part of the
reef starts north of Lizard Island and extends northwards
for almost 700 km to Papua New Guinea.
Logistics For Far Northern Dive Excursions
This region is only accessible from live aboard vessels;
excursions vary between 7, 10 and 14 days. Most trips up
here start or end in Lockhart River, a small Aboriginal
community,which is half way between Cairns and Cape York.
You usually fly one way of the trip in a small aircraft.
Some trips are spent up north for the entire duration whilst
others cruise between Cairns and Lockhart River. These cruises
can be easily combined with a real 4WD outback camping Safari
through the Cape York Peninsula.
What To See
The inner reefs in this section may sometimes have lower
visibility down to 15 meters (50 ft), but here you might
come across manta rays or whale sharks that love it there
as there is lots of plankton in the water. The reefs up
here are literally untouched. Strong currents are the reason
for the wealth of fantastic coral; probably the best Australia
has to offer. The drift dives here are awesome.
On the channels near the outer reefs and detached reefs
expect above average visibility, at least 25 to 60 m. You
are also in for the bigger fish species, as there is almost
no fishing in these waters. Enjoy leopard sharks, hammerhead
and silvertip sharks - perhaps tiger sharks. On the awesome
walls, large fish will accompany you on your dive and colourful
coral and reef life are waiting. Even if you have seen it
all, you still have to go Far North, truly a divers paradise.
Types Of Diving
You will be making heaps of drift dives along walls and
through reef channels. You can expect to dive depths in
the 20 to 40-meter range. The reefs come up to about 4 meters
below the surface, ideal for safety stops and snorkelling
in between dives. You may frequently experience currents
- in these situations you either spend most of the time
at a prominent point on the reef to watch the action, or
drift dives are organized (entry from moving boat) where
you gently drift along with the current. The crew watches
the group's location at the surface and picks you up wherever
you surface. Great fun & very relaxing !
As a lot of the actual dive sites are largely unexplored
you should be comfortable dealing with unknown situations,
which can arise with exploration dives.
Dive Sites
The following are excerpts from Dirk's dive log October
2001 Lizard Island to Lockhart River:
Aladdin's Wall: 7.15 AM: Live boat drift dive.
Slow current east to west. Sloping wall drops deep at 30
m. Huge gorgonian fans at 40m. What a way to wake up to
a new day. The coral gardens host plants and animals of
any colour under the sun. Think of the Papuan Barrier Reef
off Port Moresby. All the fish are busy to get ready for
the day. Then the buffalos of the sea take centre stage.
A school of 60 or more bump head parrotfish roam the shallows
of the reef. We are getting a very close look at those animals.
Each is easily 1.20 to 1.50 long. Something stirs them up
and they seem to flee, causing the vis to drop. Then quietly,
they move on.
Floyd's Wall: 2 reefs north of Aladdin's (past
shark reef), another live boat wall drift dive. But what
a wall. Sheer drop to 200m. Could be more. Few walls are
so straight without a ledge in sight. Sharks are patrolling
their territory. A whitetip swims up straight towards me.
I finally have the fitting comparison: Sharks are like cats.
They are fascinating to watch, come in all sorts of shapes
and sizes and only very few of them are really dangerous.
The wall is still straight down, now with some overhangs.
Huge Gorgonians, Soft coral, obsidians cover the limestone.
I see a special brittle worm I have never seen before. Very
active about 10cm long. I don't have my camera. Claudia
finds a red stonefish in perfect camouflage hiding in a
narrow swim through.
Sand Cay No. 7: The little island is off limits
- For humans any way.... Hundreds of birds have their home
and turtles do lay their eggs. Wrong season. (June-August
is right season). Good snorkelling. I follow a yellow puffer
fish with blue dots until it signals me to p.o. Then a whitetip
shark patrols his territory. Doesn't take any notice of
me.
South Tijou Reef: Diversity is a fitting name for
this site. Slack tide, low vis, sandy bottom with garden
eels. Low vis creates an eerie atmosphere - you never know
what will appear from the distance. A school of barracudas
circles under the boat and then, when we least expect it,
two manta rays do a fly-by. All excited. Large maori wrasse,
big cods, schools of snappers - and finally a solitary barramundi
cod. Low vis and plenty of fish live. I had enough good
diving for one day.
North Tijou Reef: First thing after breakfast:
wall dive, live boat. Current is going the other way. Soft
corals are the big feature on this wall, sloping out slightly;
visible bottom at approx. 60 m. Ledge must be further out.
Suddenly a group of four sharks appears from behind. Very
high dorsal fin - must be hammerheads. I'm swimming away
from the wall to get a closer look - hoping to get them
interested in me. I get a short glance at their distinctive
heads as they are passing below me without stopping. I'll
keep my eyes focused into the blurry distance - hoping for
a return.
Bligh Entrance: Wall dive fantastic colours. Absolute
sheer wall. Most spectacular scenery on the trip. Wish we
had more time here. Must be an ideal place for nudibranchs
to hide out. Unfortunately we didn't find a single one.
Nimrod Reef: Sheltered anchorage. 30m under boat.
Drop down like parachutes. Small bommies on the sandy slope.
Find a giant Moray Eel peeking out under a rock. Heaps of
flatworms (one dances beautifully for Claudia's video) and
nudibranchs. A grey whaler comes in to see what's happening
in his territory. Shallows are covered with staghorn coral
fields, giant pirotes (boulder coral), and uncounted blue,
yellow, purple, turquoise, red, …. Fish of all description
and sizes. Just hang in neutral and enjoy. Everyone comes
up excited.
Black Rocks: Before we enter the water three turtles
are drifting on the surface in a rather compromising position…
Live boat dive, Sloping wall. Swam out 20m off the wall,
on return a 2.5m silvertip came for a passing round to check
us out. Very elegant movement. The shark is big and bulky,
has two white scratches on its back. Great adrenalin rush.
The silvertip disappears as suddenly as it came. "Cool game"
I think and try again. This time 30m out into the deep blue.
Hang out for a couple of minutes - nothing. I wait a little
longer, check my air and it's time to move back. As I'm
just checking my ascent rate at the wall I see a big shadow
behind my back. Here it is again! Great stuff! Further up
in the shallows a whitetip is sleeping in the sand - about
to be disturbed by us divers. All eyes on the poor whitetip
as a large (1.3m!) turtle darts through the group of divers
from the left. What a show. Now the whitetip starts performing
- swimming gently up and down along the reef wall hiding
behind some bommies.
Seasonal Events
November - Coral Spawning: Coral Spawning is often
called "Sex on the reef"- that's what it is! Every
year it is happening again. All corals release their eggs
and sperm at the same time. You can really see it! It usually
happens 4 nights after the first full moon in November.
It is an impressive event. Night dives are spectacular.
A lot of critters are active, as this is a feast! The Coral
Spawning initiates a food chain, which brings about large
amounts of zooplankton. When these little animals are in
the water in big numbers, chances are very good that whale
sharks, giant manta rays and Brydes whales come close to
the reefs to feed.
December to March: This time is breeding time for
many creatures here. Birds are breading and green turtles
are nesting on Raine Island and Moulter Cay. There are thousands
of turtles nesting here. They estimate that in one record
night there have been up to approximately 14 500 female
green turtles nesting in one night! In order to protect
the turtles and not to disturb them, going on the island
is prohibited. The Far Northern Reefs are part of the GBR
Marine National Park Zone. Green turtles, who hatched on
Raine Island, come back here every year to lay their eggs.
These turtles travel from the waters of Indonesia, Papua
New Guinea and elsewhere in the South Pacific to nest at
Raine Island. Individual green turtles may make migrations
of some 2600 kilometres! Interestingly, the green turtles
that nest on the island are a genetically distinct population
of ancient lineage, which have long been isolated from populations
in other parts of the world!
Historic Wrecks
We have two interesting wrecks in the region. They are
not included in standard schedules of the vessels. Some
special excursions are possible, let us know if you are
interested. Both wrecks are protected as historical sites.
- RMS Quetta: She sank in 1890, when she hit an
uncharted rock off Cape York. The 116 metre (380 ft) long
wreck lies in 6-18 metres (30-60 ft) of water. The Quetta
is a fantastic, beautifully preserved wreck, considering
her age. Diving here is limited, due to very strong currents
in the area, one can dive only during slack tides on the
Quetta.
- HMS Pandora: Not much is left of the Pandora,
as she sank in 1791, but she is one of the most famous
wrecks in the world. She had 14 mutineers of the famous
HMS Bounty on board. Those mutineers were captured in
Tahiti and the Pandora was on her way to England to put
the men on trial. This is a dive site with lots of history
and stories.
Dive Operators
Accommodation And Tours
Accommodation and tour options, and general destination
information, are also available for the adjacent Cairns-Port
Douglas and Daintree-Cape
York mainland regions.
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